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This is the pattern I use for a basic small amigurumi. Currently I have been working on cows. This is the body I used for those cows. I will also use this body for bunnies, dogs, etc. It just depends on the different features you add once you complete the body. I used Blanket yarn for my cows, but this pattern is not really yarn or size specific. The chunkier the yarn the bigger the finished piece will be. The cow, made from the blanket yarn, is about 6-8 inches. The demo doll, for the pattern photos, I made From worsted weight RedHeart and is about 5 inches. It really depends on the size of the yarn and your personal working tension.
This is the pattern I use for a basic small amigurumi. Currently I have been working on cows. This is the body I used for those cows. I will also use this body for bunnies, dogs, etc. It just depends on the different features you add once you complete the body. I used Blanket yarn for my cows, but this pattern is not really yarn or size specific. The chunkier the yarn the bigger the finished piece will be. The cow, made from the blanket yarn, is about 6-8 inches. The demo doll, for the pattern photos, I made From worsted weight RedHeart and is about 5 inches. It really depends on the size of the yarn and your personal working tension.
Photos of certain steps are included BELOW the written pattern.
Photos of certain steps are included BELOW the written pattern.
For accessory pieces to make the different animals click the links below
Basic Small Animal Body
Materials:
6mm crochet hook
A few stitch markers or scrap yarn
Bernat Baby Blanket yarn (one skein makes about 4 bodies) approximately 6-8 inches depending on your personal tension.
Or yarn of preference.
Notes: This pattern eliminates the need for sewing on the arms and legs. It is worked in continuous rounds. Beginning at the top of the head, working down the body, and then finally down the first leg. When you begin the body you will be skipping stitches to later rejoin your yarn and finish the arms. At the bottom of the body you will have one complete leg and skipped stitches to join your yarn and complete the second leg.
Either make a magic loop and sc 6, OR ch2, and 6sc in the second ch from hook. (6)
Increase in each stitch around. (I like to use an invisible increase: sc1 in the back loop and then sc another in the front loop of the same stitch) (12)
*sc in the next stitch, increase in the next stitch* repeat around. (18)
*sc in the next 2 sts, increase in the next stitch* repeat around. (24)
*sc in the next 7 sts, increase in the next stitch* repeat around. (27)
Sc around even. (27)
This round I mark where I want my eyes. Sc in the next 6 sts. Place scap yarn in next sc you make, to mark 1st eye. (7sc so far). Sc in the next 4 sts. Place scrap yarn in next sc you make, to mark the 2nd eye. (12 sc so far). Sc in the remaining 15 stitches. (27). NOTE: if you want the eyes closer or further apart adjust your scrap yarn accordingly. See Photo A
Sc around even (27)
Sc around even (27)
*Sc in the next 7 sts, work one decrease* repeat around. (24) NOTE: I use an invisible decrease: catch the front loop of the first stitch, catch the front loop of the second stitch, yarn over, pull through both of those loops as one, yarn over and complete the stitch. ALSO: This is a good point to secure your eyes as there is still an opening big enough to work with. See Photo B
*sc in the next 2 sts, decrease* repeat around. (18)
*sc next st, decrease* repeat around. (12). Stuff head.
NOTE: If making a giraffe work 4 more round of 12 sc even before continuing to step #13
*sc in the next stitch, increase in the next st* repeat around. (18)
*sc in the next 2 sts, increase in the next stitch* repeat around. (24)
NOTE: If making a giraffe, sc in the next two sts on the round before continuing with round 15
In this round you will be separating the stitches for the body and arms. Squash the body flat and determine the front/center 6 stitches. It should work out that you skip 6 stitches (for the arm) and then sc the 6 sts across the front, skip the next 6 stitches for the second arm, and sc the last 6 stitches across the back. (12 sc, and two arm holes consisting of 6 sts each) See Photo C
Only working around the body stitches: *sc in the next 2 sts, increase in the next stitch* repeat around (16)
Sc around even (16). This is the last round if the body. Do not fasten off!
1st leg: Separate your body stitches so that you have 8 stitches evenly on each side of the body. *Sc in the next 4 sts (front of 1st leg), skip the next 8 sts on the body and sc the last 4 sts on the body. Completing the 1st rnd of the 1st leg. See photos D and E
Sc around 1st leg, even. (8sc)
Sc next st. Increase in the next 3 sts. This will begin to shape the toe. Sc in the last 4 sts. (11)
Sc in the next 2 sts. Increase in the next 3 sts. (Again, the increases should be at the toe) sc in the last 6 sts. (14) See Photo F
Decrease around (7sc) fasten off and draw the first foot closed. Stuff foot and leg. See photos G and H
Attach yarn for the 2nd leg where shown photo. Sc 8 around the second leg. (8) See photo I
Sc around even (8)
Sc in the next st. Increase in the next 3 sts for the toe. Sc in the last 4 sts. (11)
Sc in the next 2 sts, increase in the next 3 sts, sc in the last 6 sts. (14)
Decrease around, fasten off and draw closed. Stuff using the opening from the arm holes. See photos J and K
Arms: attach yarn under arm where shown in photo. 1st arm… Sc around the 6sc. See photo L
*sc next st, increase next st* repeat around (9)
*sc next 2 sts, increase in the next stitch* repeat around (12)
Sc around even (12) Stuff arm and hand)
Decrease around (6) Fasten off and draw closed
Second arm: attach yarn where shown in photo REPEAT steps 28 through 32. See Photo M
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
Finished
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